“Warranted” is not just a stamp on the spine. It’s an ethos that I use when building my saws. I completely stand behind them. If you’re unhappy with the saws performance, in any way, send it back for a full refund. My saws are guaranteed to outperform your own cutting abilities.

Dovetail Saw

A twelve inch dovetail saw with my standard handle in walnut. Like a surgeon’s scalpel this fine tool is perfect for cutting fine joinery such as dovetails with the grain at the ends of boards. My dovetail saws leave a fine, joinery-ready finish in both soft and hard woods that is ready for glue-up.

Dovetail Saw Features:

  • 8-12 inch blade
  • .018 blade thickness
  • 2 inch depth-of-cut
  • Standard open handle
  • Rip cut
  • 16-13 points per inch (PPI)
  • Progressive Pitch upgrade (add $25)

Starting price: $250 USD + tax

Carcass Saw

A twelve inch carcass saw with my standard handle in cherry wood. For your first backsaw, I recommend a carcass saw filed with a combo/hybrid toothline. This is going to be the saw you reach for the most and will do most of the tasks you want. It’s like the jack plane of saws.

Instead of a hybrid toothline, these are also available in a dedicated crosscut, a dedicated rip, or with my own “Speed Demon” rip tooth geometry that races through 4/4 white oak like it’s pine. My Speed Demon saws are a very aggressive saw with a progressive rake that starts smoothly and cuts fast, saving you time. I wouldn’t recommend this option for a novice; it’s really easy to get off track or cut past a line in a hurry!

Extra length on the carcass saw helps it to gain momentum on the push, making the cut that much faster, while a shorter length offers more natural control for precise depth.

Carcass Saw Features:

  • 12-14 inch blade
  • .020 blade thickness
  • 2-5/8 inch depth-of-cut
  • Standard open handle
  • Rip, crosscut, or hybrid
  • 14-11 PPI
  • Progressive Pitch upgrade (add $25)

Starting price: $250 USD + tax

Sash Saw

A 14 inch sash saw with my standard handle in walnut. This saw lies somewhere between a carcass and tenon saw. It offers a little more control and precision over a full-size tenon saw, and can cut deeper (and with more force) than a carcass saw. This is very much a specialty saw, but may be desirable for cutting dense hardwoods or once you’ve otherwise filled out your saw till.

Sash Saw Features:

  • 13-14 inch blade
  • 0.025 blade thickness
  • 3 inch depth-of-cut
  • Standard closed handle
  • Rip, crosscut, or hybrid
  • 14-10 PPI
  • Progressive Pitch upgrade (add $25)

Starting price: $300 USD + tax

Tenon Saw

A sixteen inch tenon saw with my standard handle in walnut. Mortise and Tenon joinery is strong, and deep tenon cuts in wide boards call for my largest backsaw. My tenon saws are the answer for clean and precise rip cuts of a tenon’s cheek. With the largest depth-of-cut, the saw plate also must be thicker to maintain rigidity, so on top of being the biggest, these are also my heaviest saws.

My special tooth geometry will give you a precise and high quality cut, greatly reducing the time you spend cleaning up the tenon’s cheeks.

Tenon Saw Features:

  • 14-16 inch blade
  • 0.025 blade thickness
  • 3-1/2 inch depth-of-cut
  • Standard closed handle
  • Rip cut
  • 13-10 PPI

Starting price: $300 USD + tax

Additional Notes

  • All saws that I offer are made with milled brass backs. Traditionally, milled brass backs secure the blades by bonding them together with an adhesive. However, my blades are married to the spines by means of friction in the same manner that traditional folded backs hold blades. This is advantageous because if the saw blades ever need to be removed or re-tensioned, the repairs can be made quite easily.
  • Progressive Pitch is available as a $25 upgrade for dovetail, carcass, and sash saws. This allows for the saw to start the cut very easily without sacrificing speed or quality of cut. This is achieved by having a higher tooth count at the toe of the blade and then it gradually becomes more aggressive by the heel of the blade. Tenon saws are already pretty aggressive, and adding progressive pitch would make them unusable in some lumbers.
  • Tooth geometry can be optionally customized on all saws. The specifications listed with each saw are common parameters, but they can be adapted as necessary to suit your needs.
  • The handles that I offer on my saws will fit the hands of 95% of my customers. If you have exceptionally small or large hands, please add those additional details when ordering so that we can determine the best sizing for your needs.
  • While uncommon, saw handles occasionally need to be tightened or loosened. The split nuts have been slotted to accept the Lie-Nielsen split nut screwdriver. Other split nut drivers may also fit the hardware, but the Lie-Nielsen driver is the preferred tool.
  • Please save the box and plastic that your saw arrives in! My custom boxes can be re-used to send the saw for re-sharpening or just to simply protect it when it isn’t in use. The plastic bag is actually a volatile corrosion inhibitor (VCI) bag. When the saw is stored inside this bag, it helps to prevent rust and corrosion. It’s best used for long term storage or in humid environments.


My standard open and closed handles appear as follows. The woods available for handles changes over time based on my stock; I will go over handle material options upon ordering your saw.

My standard open handle in cherry wood. My standard closed handle in walnut.

Limited and Custom Saws

From time to time I will offer limited edition saws; I usually advertise these when available on my Facebook page. I will also work with most custom requests, but this can have a significant impact on pricing.

A carcass saw with a Bakewell handle. A custom sash saw. A dovetail saw with a Richardson Brothers handle.


I will always sharpen my own saws, and only ask you pay shipping both ways. If you’d like to talk about sharpening another saw, contact me for an estimate.